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At rope’s end: Fear, grief and joy in Cibecue Creek

Apache guide leads the way into sacred Cibecue Creek, on the trail of bears and loss

Gregg Henry — bull rider, firefighter, cowboy, canyoneer, guide, and full-blooded Cibecue Apache of the clan of Chief Diablo himself — stood nonchalantly on the edge of the sheer 80-foot drop alongside the thundering waterfall and looked at me expectantly.


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